Well, this is a very sensitive and controversial question. But what I want to say here is the contentiousness of the topic and we hope that people will talk about this in a civilized way. Because if the answer is not smart – it will become a form of body shaming or cyberbullying. But here’s the one thing, life is inherently unfair – given that we’ve followed many fashion brands, the answer should be clear: “No fatties.” “.
Right from childhood, we have been taught indirectly through fairy tales, and anecdotes. Princesses, princes – perfection comes from being prosperous, rich, healthy, and beautiful (Beautiful here means Fitness to perfection), and the level of sympathy with viewers from body balance. Not only that, but it has been in the mind for a long time – from classic Renaissance paintings – to famous sculptures. Most of it revolves around perfect human proportions.
Fashion in a time when haute couture was super flourishing and the concept of high-end tailoring appreciates this even more. For many in the industry, fashion is beautiful, it is the most perfect – it has a certain standard and becomes an “unwritten law” and really without a communication purpose as well as a target. When it comes to new customers, CEOs who are full of grit don’t want to take a fat girl/boy as a brand ambassador for people to laugh at. With the explanation that: “If we use fat as a media, our followers will be subjected to a sense of dependence – Thinking that being fat can be beautiful in some way. We recognize and respect that, but at the same time it promotes obesity and disrespect for the body.”
Talking a little more realistically like this, it’s not just about the image of the brand, but also the problem of COGs (Cost of Goods Sales) – cost of goods sold. The production of larger size items means more fabric costs if mass production, changing the designs – patterns accordingly, and finding the right model for the right body shape while still ensuring Aesthetics and another marketing campaign. This means the risk is quite high and is no different from playing 1 hand. So, designing and manufacturing for a market doesn’t makeup too much revenue.
So why do we see fashion brands diversifying the shape of their products – clothing audience and market?
The market has changed, and the target audience for fashion has also completely changed. The fast pace of life goes hand in hand with an increasingly technological lifestyle
Fast food makes our bodies more and more susceptible to “obesity”. At the same time, the concept of high-end tailor-made fashion has also faded a lot to make room for fast fashion and ready-to-wear fashion. For ready-to-wear fashion, the run size will go from XS to XL, XXL is also available. Accessing this market segment through ready-to-wear will reduce costs and increase product and brand coverage. People also love ready-to-wear more. We should remember that fashion group owners are mostly those with a gritty heads, smelling the potential – of this lucrative piece of cake. In addition, with the message “Fashion for everyone”, will bring an image of “Better – more beautiful” in the eyes of customers. A sustainable brand when delivering a better message. But in essence, it is just a communication tool and increases product value.
So what about fashion designers?
It depends on the personality, fashion language, and message of the designer but they obviously want to aim for diversity in the way people use their products. There will be a mix of different body shapes, forms, and genders, and there are fat people in it. BUT – we would like to emphasize the word BUT, those clothes are designed for the body and shape of people with large bodies to match and match the mood of the entire collection. It is meant to be designed for them, not how many people are now “forced” to choose products that are not suitable for their body and then I comment and say “my body-my choice”.
Yohji Yamamoto (The voice of Body):
Yohji has always been the same, although operating globally and mostly in Western countries – the capital of fashion, the Japanese nature of his works/Speech is still evident. He always considers sewing techniques, materials, and the movement of fabrics that make up the clothes and when people wear them.
The final fashion that Yohji is aiming for? Always the final destination of the designers who really care. It daily wears (Fashion), and he has always diversified in using models on her catwalks – including old people, young people, fat people, and thin people. And she also doesn’t choose to use the female sex to show off her skills – Yohji also uses male models with different body types: something that is scrutinized at fashion shows. . That’s part of the pinnacle of Yohji – when he wants his clothes, to really look good on a variety of body types, not just white and thin models.
Martine Rose Spring 2023 has a similar message. When Rose was with Demna Gvasalia as a consultant and assistant in the design at Balenciaga, the vision of oversized pieces appeared in Rose. Martine Rose Spring 2023 offers fashion experiences for those whose bodies are not up to the standards commonly found in fashion – but have been “covered” and accentuated with the brand’s own clothing products. Such is Martine Roé’s genuine interest in different body shapes.